The 2009 Chardonnay Isobel Charles Heintz Vineyard is a cool, vibrant wine loaded with tons of minerality. Despite its freshness and vibrancy, the fruit is quite extroverted. Mango, white flowers, tangerine and pistachio are layered into the energetic, pointed finish. Exotic floral notes linger in the empty glass. This is another highly expressive Chardonnay from DuMOL. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees.Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com