I loved the spectacular Zinfandel Old Hill Ranch (normally a classic as well as a candidate for the Zinfandel of the vintage). The 1999 boasts a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a gorgeous nose of new saddle leather, balsam wood, spice box, black cherry liqueur, and blackberries. The attack is sweet (from glycerin and extract, not sugar), and the finish is full-bodied, rich, and explosive. It will drink well for a decade or more. Tel. (707) 938-1960

Bright blackberries, but enough surprises for it to be anything but run-of-the-mill. Anise and charred oak flavors keep the fruit from being too bright; finishes medium-long with pepper and mineral notes. The nose is a seductive cocoon of mint, eucalyptus, barbecue marinade, brown sugar and a milky-calcium note that envelops the berry fruit.——D.T.(3/1/2002)—— 92