The 2004 Alfa Spiga is more open and more complex on the nose than the 2003, with ebullient raspberry, crushed strawberry and cranberry on the nose that offers a more pronounced floral aspect. The palate is medium-bodied with dense tannins and a keen citric thread. It is tightly wound toward the finish that demonstrates great precision, but certainly needs several years in bottle to reach its plateau. Drink 2016-2025. The boy gets around. Of course, I am talking about the peripatetic Jose-Manuel Ortega, who presides over three namesake wineries in Chile, Argentina and Spain. Although not quite as “cosmic” as his state-of-the-art facility in the Uco Valley, his Ribera del Duero winery is presently undergoing much investment that should see a continued melioration in the quality of the wines, not that quality appears to be compromised at the moment. There are three ranges here: the entry-level Urban, Spiga and Alfa Spiga. After touring the vineyard, Jose invited me to taste recent and mature releases. I asked Jose to explain his approach to oak that here seems more integrated than others that I encountered. “My personal answer to this question: balance. I always put the example of a three-legged chair. The three legs are: acidity, fruit and oak. If any of the three are not in balance, the wine is not optimal. If a wine has too much or too little of any of the three, it will not be in balance. We have begun to experiment with 500-liter oak barrels. But the reality is that our aim is to produce long-aging wines and oak is important for wines to last once the primary aromas, which are the most volatile, start to disappear. But the wines have to possess enough intensity to withstand new oak. Our experience is that O. Fournier wines are not oaky and they hold very well with time.” As usual, I found quality to be the bedrock of his wines and at just $ 15, Jose demonstrated that Ribera del Duero does not have to be expensive. N.B. The importer changed just prior to the completion of this report. Importer: Country Vintners; www.thecountryvintner.com

The 2004 Alfa Spiga underwent malolactic fermentation in new oak followed by 18 months aging in new French and American oak before bottling without filtration. Purple in color, it presents an array of aromas including pain grille, scorched earth, pencil lead, black currants, and blackberry. Youthful and tight on the palate, the wine has substantial ripe tannin as well as loads of black fruits. It demands 4-6 years of cellaring to resolve its tannins. Should this wine evolve as I expect it will, my score will appear conservative. This is a new estate for importer Jorge Ordonez. The winery was purchased in 2001 by Jose Manuel Ortega Gil-Fournier who also owns a winery of the same name in Mendoza, Argentina.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 492-3316

The ripe, sweet fruit in this big red evokes blackberry jam, with licorice, clove and orange peel accents. Thick with tannins and stuffed with oaky notes, yet finishes fresh and clean. Best from 2008 through 2015. 2,000 cases made, 500 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Ribera del Duero Select to Add