For combining power, richness, and finesse in a medium-bodied, tightly knit framework, the 1990 Volnay-Clos de la Bousse d'Or ranks high. The wine's fragrance of spices, minerals, wood, and red and black fruits is just beginning to emerge. This deep ruby-colored wine also possesses a velvety-textured feel, fine richness, and a supple, pure finish. Except for the dry, austere tannins in the aftertaste, everything is in harmony. This wine should be at its peak in 5-6 years and keep for at least a decade. Gerard Potel's winemaking touch continues to ensure that Pousse d'Or's wines are among the most elegant and graceful produced in Volnay. In 1990 there is an added aromatic dimension because of the superb ripeness achieved in this vintage. The results are Pousse d'Or's finest wines since 1985 and 1980. A Becky Wasserman Selection, various importers.