Ripe cherry and plum tinged with their pits as well as black tea, chalk, and brown spices make for considerable aromatic and palate complexity in the Pousse d’Or 2007 Volnay Clos de La Bousse d’Or. A polished texture and seamless persistence render this highly successful, and while I suspect it will easily tolerate a half dozen years’ cellaring, drinking it sooner still strikes me as the better bet. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Ripe cherry and plum tinged with their pits as well as black tea, chalk, and brown spices make for considerable aromatic and palate complexity in the Pousse d’Or 2007 Volnay Clos de La Bousse d’Or. A polished texture and seamless persistence render this highly successful, and while I suspect it will easily tolerate a half dozen years’ cellaring, drinking it sooner still strikes me as the better bet. Patrick Landanger’s recent vintages seem to reflect increasing confidence (not to mention consistency), displaying a sense of restraint while combining richness and transparency to detail. Between the threat of rot and of roasting, he observes, the 2007s required more rigorous sorting than did the fruit from 2008, with a correspondingly lower crop, but Landanger and his crew did an outstanding job in the face of 2007 adversities as well as in 2008.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Imports, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861 6800 and a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93