The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is brilliant, bursting with aromas of mandarin oil, orange peel, dried white flowers, oyster shells and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, its enveloping attack segueing into a deep, tight-knit core that displays striking cut and tension—built around considerable reserves of dry extract—before concluding with a searingly mineral finish.