Bursting with aromas of orange zest, pear, oyster shell and beeswax, Piuze's 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is full-bodied, satiny and intense, its ample core of fruit underpinned by racy acids and framed by chalky structuring, concluding with a long, pungently mineral finish. Out of the gates, this is the high point of the range—the only question is if this year's C?te de Bouqueyreaux might catch up with it in the fullness of time?