The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is a brooding wine that flows with the essence of smoke, tar, earthiness, wild cherries and iron. This is one of most rich, concentrated Brunellos of the vintage. Dark and enveloping on the palate, this powerful, virile Brunello closes with substantial heft. It should age beautifully on the depth of its fruit, but readers will enjoy a far more complete drinking experience if the wine is given at least few years in bottle to shed some of its baby fat. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Vincenzo Abbruzzese is one of the most outspoken, passionate growers in Montalcino. His beautifully tended vineyards yield some of the richest wines in the region; and that’s where most of the focus is – on the vineyards. The winery itself is unremarkable and is equipped with just the bare essentials. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral oak; what comes through is Abbruzzese’s commitment to low yields, sustainable farming and non-interventionalist winemaking. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2008 Rosso in bottle, but several samples tasted from tank and cask seemed quite promising. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Exhibits dried dark fruits, with toasty oak and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with a solid core of fruit and chewy tannins, followed by a long finish. This is rather subdued now, but should open with bottle age. Best after 2012. 2,335 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Brunello di Montalcino Select to Add

Plush and modern, plump and decadent: this is a blockbuster Brunello with huge concentration, density and intensity especially where those oak-related aromas are concerned. Yes, you get loads of spice and mesquite wood here but the natural intensity of the cherry and blackberry is not overwhelmed. The wine is soft, chewy and dense in the mouth. Drink after 2014.——M.L.(8/1/2010)—— 93