The luxury cuvee of Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonniers emerges from the granite hills behind the Hermitage appellation. This is the finest wine of the appellation, but, sadly, only 500 or so cases are produced. The saturated dark-ruby colored, medium-bodied 1999 Crozes-Hermitage Les Varonnieres offers up aromas of plums, currants, cherries, smoke, and dried herbs. While it may ultimately merit an outstanding score, it possesses more austerity as well as firm tannin than previous examples. Although firm, with good grip as well as impressive concentration, it requires additional aging. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2012. With respect to Chapoutier's red wines, 2000 was a very fine vintage. Interestingly, this offering revealed more fat and flesh than many of his northern Rhone peers. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000