The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, which Sophie Morey told me she usually picks a little earlier than the other crus, has a delightful, marine-influenced bouquet with hints of oyster shells and sea brine lending it character. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, suggestions of white peach and lemongrass in the background, that builds to an intense but controlled finish. This feels nicely assured at this early stage.