Boyer’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Rucheaux is leesy, rich and substantial. Fresh lime, toasted nuts, coconut, and honey represent a more harmonious meld of fruit and wood than displayed by several of the other wines in this collection, and there is a suggestion of sweetness in the finish from sheer ripeness, together with hints of botrytis and oak.
Vincent Boyer began picking several days after the official starting date, in the belief that his grapes required additional ripening. After yeasting, the musts took off and fermented quickly, which might account for a certain sameness of character I noticed from one site to another. All but one of the 2006s was bottled already by August, 2007. Boyer was concerned to preserve freshness and the early 2007 harvest forced him to make a quick decision. The wines were lightly filtered but not fined. (Several unfiltered bottlings from selected barrels were as usual essayed this year exclusively for North Berkeley Imports, which I did not taste.)
A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93