The single-vineyard 2003 Barbaresco Il Bricco is made in big, powerful style loaded with dark fruit, spice and sweet toasted oak. This may be a riper wine than the normale, but it doesn't have that wine's sense of balance and poise. An excessive use of oak gives the wine an angular edge and hard tannins beyond those of the vintage itself. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Pio Cesare is one of the region's historic estates. The winery's base Barolo and Barbarescos are made in a fairly traditional style while single-vineyard wines are decidedly more contemporary expressions. In the challenging 2003 vintage, the former, which are multi-commune blends, have turned out particularly well.Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000