The 2009 Pinot Noir Pisoni is a richer, deeper wine endowed with considerable finesse. It shows gorgeous mid-palate fleshiness and tons of character, with a tendency towards the darker end of the fruit spectrum, all qualities that are hallmarks of this site, first planted in 1982. Menthol, licorice and spices wrap around the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Bernardus. These Chardonnays and Pinots all emphasize elegance in their mid-weight personalities. Tel. (831) 659-1900; www.bernardus.com

Enormously ripe, as you’d expect from this famous vineyard. Explodes in red cherries, licorice, cola, anise and smoky sandalwood, so rich and deep and long in the finish. Plenty of racy acidity provides balance. You might want to give this Pinot a few years in the cellar to calm down.——S.H.(12/31/2011)—— 90