The 2003 Vintner’s Reserve Merlot represents an upgrade in quality. A blend of Sonoma, Mendocino, and Napa fruit, this 100% Merlot spent 16 months in French oak of which 19% was new. It exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, pleasant mocha and berry fruit, medium body, and a clean, surprisingly complex finish. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

At this price VR is treading into high-priced waters, but quality is keeping up. The wine is rich and lush, with a fine balance of dusty tannins, crisp acids and direct blackberry, coffee and herb flavors. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 85