Another clear upgrade in quality is the 2007 Vintner’s Reserve Merlot. This is even stronger than the 2006, which was an upgrade over earlier efforts. Elegant mocha and berry fruit intermixed with some herbs, coffee, and spice make for a delicious, round wine that is actually a blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, all from Sonoma. Drink it over the next 2-4 years. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

A sound, clean, dry Merlot from various parts of Sonoma County. Elegant and classy, with firm tannins framing rich flavors of red and black cherries, red currants, tobacco, cola and sweet, smoky sandalwood. Quite impressive at this price.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 88