Mineral and spice-scented, the light to medium-bodied 2003 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Vieilles Vignes (white) has excellent focus, grip, and length yet does not fully blossom on the palate. Its appealing floral, mineral flavors are wound tightly, giving the impression they are being restrained from completely expressing themselves. Drink this wine between 2006 (in hopes that a year in the bottle will expand its character) and 2010.