The 1978 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is at the peak of its powers today, wafting from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of wild berries, sweet soil tones, incense, woodsmoke and orange rind. Full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with an elegantly textural attack, superb depth at the core and bright girdling acids, it's long and sapid. "It's become civilized," comments Lalou Bize-Leroy.