Malat’s 2006 Riesling Silberbuhel reflects its Wachau (Mautern) location with a sense of fullness and weight not possessed by his Steinbuhl Riesling this year (even though analytically, the two are almost identical). Peach and fresh lime scent the nose, with their zest and fuzz impinging on a tactilely invigorating yet rich palate. The finish here is generously juicy yet incisively pungent.Like many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.