The Malat 2007 Riesling Silberbuhel as in past vintages reflects its Wachau location (deep eroded mica-schist in Mautern) both in an enhanced sense of weight and richness (and higher, 13.5%, alcohol) but also in mineral complexity. Sage, lime zest and faintly bitter fruit pit tinge a matrix of ripe peach and nut oils, and considerable depth of stony and savory mineral and meat stock emerges beneath a silken, glycerin-rich surface. The bitter elements here are well-integrated into the wine’s long finish. The strength and personality of this wine put one in mind a bit of Marc Kreydenweiss’s Clos du Val d’Eleon Pinot Gris-Riesling blend. This should be worth watching and savoring for at least 5-6 years. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com