Even better than when I tasted it last year, the 1996 Chardonnay reveals mineral and peach-like scents in the nose, superb ripeness, long, fresh, concentrated fruit flavors, and good underlying acidity. It should drink well for 4-5 years. Montelena Chardonnays are made in the non-malolactic style, from what is known as Clone 4 (large clustered grapes, about four times the size of the new Dijon clones of Chardonnay). The wines possess a crisp minerality, and tend to be flexible with food. While they rarely achieve the complexity of a Marcassin, Peter Michael, or Mt. Eden, they are among the finest non-malolactic Chardonnays made in California (only Shafer's Red Shoulder Ranch is better). Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221