Montelena’s Chardonnays have always been non-malolactic, elegant, steely efforts with good acidity and, in some vintages, a remarkable aging potential of 15-20 years. My favorite over the last 5-7 vintages may be the 2003 Chardonnay, which boasts a rich lemon custard-like nose with hints of green apples, white currants, pears, and peaches. The wine is vibrant, full-bodied, and surprisingly rich with a vivaciousness and zesty acidity that provide a laser-like precision and freshness. It should drink well for 7-8 years, possibly longer. At the end of my tastings, Bo Barrett opened a 1986 Montelena (rated 94), and it is still incredibly young, rich, vibrant, and full-bodied. It is a terrific expression of Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon made by a master. It appears to have another 20-25 years of aging potential. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221