The deep ruby/purple-tinged 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac reveals a rich, sumptuous perfume of root vegetables, blackberries, cassis, melted licorice, incense, and spice. Chapoutier’s single vineyard Chateauneuf du Papes represent two different areas of the appellation, with the Barbe Rac coming from the western corridor, not far from the Plateau of Mont-Redon. Chapoutier has adjusted the manner in which he ages these cuvees, as they are now completely aged in tank. It is incredibly full-bodied for a 2006, with superb concentration as well as excellent length and purity. Drink this beauty over the next 15+ years. Both the Barbe Rac and Croix de Bois are 100% Grenache. Michel Chapoutier continues to expand his considerable empire throughout southern France. Recently he purchased Jean Marchand’s Domaine des Pontifes in Chateauneuf du Pape, so I would not be surprised to see a third luxury cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape emerge from this passionate biodynamic producer of Rhone wines. The less expensive Chapoutier offerings continue to increase in quality. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847)-604-8900

Based in the northern Rhone, Chapoutier’s Chateauneufs have not always been a strong suit, but the 2006 Barbe Rac rocks. Some stable-like notes on the nose add complexity to the bold cherry fruit, while stemmy, herbal notes bring even more nuance to the palate. It’s full bodied, soft and round, with a finishing texture somewhere between silk and velvet. Best from 2012–2020.——J.C.(12/15/2009)—— 93