A ripe, full-bodied effort, d'Arenberg's 2017 The Custodian Grenache features notes of crushed stone layered over Italian plums and dark chocolate. The tannins are supple, there's ample concentration and the gently dusty finish picks up alluring hints of licorice. It's not the perfumed, less-extracted style that's in vogue at the moment, but it delivers what consumers have come to expect from this label.