The 2006 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon (100% varietal from the DeLille owned Grand Ciel Vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA) sports a captivating bouquet of wood smoke, herbs, balsamic, espresso, blackberry, and a hint of chocolate. Elegant on the palate with loads of savory fruit and spice elements, it personifies the phrase of the iron fist in the velvet glove. It will evolve for several more years and easily see its 20th birthday. www.delillecellars.com

This is pure Cabernet from the estate vineyard. These are still young vines, and though the potential for greatness is there, they don’t deliver the complexity of their neighbor Ciel du Cheval—yet. Excellent fruit mixes berries and cherries, while barrel aging shows in the accents of spice and cracker. Medium-bodied, with alcohol approaching 15%.——P.G.(8/1/2010)—— 90