The prodigious 2007 Grand Ciel Cabernet Sauvignon (100%) comes from an estate-owned vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA. Alluring notes of mocha, exotic spices, sandalwood, and wild berries lead to a complex, weighty, plush, loaded, succulent offering that will see its 20th birthday in peak form. DeLille Cellars and Doyenne are sister labels, the former for Bordeaux-style wines and the latter for Rhone-style wines. They will be reviewed separately.www.delillecellars.com

Tight, young and somewhat impenetrable, this pure Cabernet from the estate vineyard on Red Mountain is tannic and sharp. The fruit shows cherry and cassis, and the alcohol (listed at 14.9%) is mostly contained. But it’s a hard wine, and does not seem to have the complex aromatics that promise more detail with age. Drink it now, for its pure, young fruit and match it to a thick, juicy steak.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 90