The 2008 Zinfandel Bacigalupi Vineyard displays notes of leafy herbs intermixed with pepper, black raspberry and briary mountain berry fruit. Among the more supple of the Zinfandels, the wine is not as complex as the other wines aromatically, but does have better balance between the acids and fruit. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Volume is what this Zin is all about. The vineyard is in the warmest part of the valley, and the grapes sure did get ripe. They flood the mouth with potent flavors of blackberries, cherries, licorice and red plums, with a peppery, briary quality and a finish so softly sweet, it’s almost chocolaty. Just yummy.——S.H.(8/1/2010)—— 92