The estate’s medium-bodied 2003 Barolo Prapo, from a vineyard in Serralunga, offers candied plums, licorice, baking spices and dark fruit with outstanding length. This poised, pretty Barolo needs another year or two to integrate its tannins and should drink well to at least age 15. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. For the most part, this is a strong set of new wines from Ceretto. The 2004 single-vineyard Barbarescos are both outstanding and the Barolo selections aren’t too far behind. Unfortunately there is no Barolo Bricco Rocche in 2003. The wines still show a generous use of oak, but when vintage conditions are favorable, the wines can be beautiful, as the 2004 Barbarescos attest. My one criticism is of the entry-level wines. The Barbaresco Asij and Barolo Zonchera are both disappointing relative to best wines at this level. Ceretto certainly has the resources to do better. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

Shows dried fig and berry. Has a full-bodied palate, with round tannins and a caressing finish. Best after 2010. 850 cases made, 250 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Slightly backward, particularly given the vintage, the wine has a complex nose with plenty of dark fruit, Turkish delight, smoked meat and earth. A full rich palate, slightly soft, it begins to run out of steam a little in mid palate, but returns with a flourish, and the finish is long and nuanced. Will repay 5+ years of cellaring.——M.G.(12/22/2011)—— 92