With Schonborns “three-star” 2009 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Auslese Three Star we experience a dramatic jump in both residual sugar and acidity vis-a-vis any of their current collections non-botrytis wines. (Interestingly, the estate has in recent years phased-out “regular” Pfaffenberg Auslese, aiming instead where possible for this sort of virtual-B.A.) Aromas of pear liqueur, quince preserves, and marzipan prepare the way for a confectionary and confitured palate impression to which the pungency of fresh ginger and bitterness of citrus rind offer counterpoint and help push back against the strong sense of sweetness. This embryonic elixir ought to be worth following for at least a quarter century, and the patient will probably be rewarded not only with more balanced sweetness but also with greater complexity. The latest collection from Peter Barth and his team further demonstrates the high standards that now prevail at this venerable estate. “The window for optimal harvest seems to keep narrowing,” Barth notes, and the relatively high finished alcohol levels on this years dry Schonborn Rieslings certainly testifies to that fact, leaving the 2008s at this address with a distinct edge over their 2009 counterparts. Despite the ravages of hail in Hattenheim and Erbach – including the loss of nearly one-third of the estates anticipated crop of Marcobrunn – the number of different bottlings from that site and from the monopole Pfaffenberg is still considerable. Various importers, including Dee Vine Wines San Francisco, CA; tel. (877) 389- 9463, Slocum & Sons, North Haven, CT; tel. 203-239-8000, Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700, Winesellers Ltd. Niles, IL; tel. (847) 647-1100