Readers looking for a premier cru/grand cru Cote de Nuits look-alike should check out the deep ruby/purple-colored 1999 Pinot Noir Rochioli Riverblock Vineyard (550 cases). Floral aromas mixed with sweet black cherry and raspberry fruit are accompanied by a broodingly backward, moderately tannic, long, concentrated wine. Patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2014. Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

This dark and earthy Pinot pleased but did not wow tasters. Panelists applauded the forward raspberry fruit, but not all thought it was up to the ultratoasty oak veneer. Some found it a touch grainy and overly earthy; others thought it very tasty and not at all heavy. Only time will tell if the deep, sweet fruit will prevail——W.E.(10/1/2002)—— 88