From a very well-known site, the 2008 Pinto Noir Hirsch Vineyard exhibits notes of red apple skin and tart currants, with medium body and zesty acids, and again, the acids are very pronounced for the amount of fruit. The wine certainly has the typical Williams-Selyem acidified style, but slightly less concentration than usual. This wine will benefit from another year or two of bottle age and should keep for 7-8 years. With thirteen separate Pinot Noirs, Williams-Selyem has something for just about everybody. Eight of these Pinot Noirs hail from relatively well-known sites in the Russian River and three come from the Sonoma Coast, while the two outliers are the Weir Vineyard from Yorkville Highlands and the Ferrington Vineyard from the Anderson Valley. Three well-regarded vineyards of the Sonoma Coast comprise part of this impressive Pinot Noir portfolio from Williams-Selyem. With eight Russian River bottlings, the two with the largest availability are the Eastside Road Neighbors and Westside Road Neighbors, which are blends from different fruit sources. The most underrated wines in the entire portfolio are the Zinfandels that come from winemaker Bob Cabrol.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Dazzles with richness, offering waves of candied, tart raspberry and cherry fruit, Dr. Pepper, exotic Indian spice, rose petal and sandalwood flavors, as well as undefinable feral things. Absolutely dry and high in acidity, with overwhelming complexity, it’s a milestone. Drink now through 2014; could go way beyond.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 97