The 2008 Chardonnay Jackson Hills from Santa Barbara exhibits the classic pineapple, smoky hazelnut, mango, and orange marmalade fruit notes in a full-bodied, exuberant, flamboyant style. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

A new price point tier for K-J, in between Grand Reserve and Highlands Estates. Bright and racy in cool-climate acidity, with layered flavors of lemondrop candy, lemon chiffon pie and buttered toast. Delicious and savory. The grapes are from the Santa Maria Valley and the Los Alamos region.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 91