Saline, truffly, musky aromas in the Diel 2009 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese suggest an intriguing alliance of botrytis and mineral elements that puts me in mind a bit of Jurancon. Pear nectar, quince preserves, and candied lemon further inform the delicate, creamily-textured palate of this almost cloud- and watercolor-like, 7.5% alcohol elixir. At once transparent and with gently-rounded edges, it is likely to fascinate and seduce for at least the next 25 years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300