The 1999 Syrah Case Via (aged 12 months in barrique) appears to be the finest Syrah Fontodi has yet produced. It is a high-toned example with a cooler climate taste than French Syrah, but the complex notes of smoke, melted asphalt, blackberries, currants, leather, and charcoal are striking. Medium-bodied, with good underlying acidity, and a tight, restrained personality, this pure, long Syrah should continue to unfold over the next 7-10 years. Bravo! Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

From the eve of our past century, the Fontodi 1999 Syrah Case Via is still in the game. It has transitioned into a purely tertiary state with spice, smoke, charcoal, scorched earth, cola and tarry asphalt. There is almost no fruit left. A point of bitterness appears on the close, but I discovered that it softens considerably four or five hours after the bottle is opened. This wine teaches us that we have good reason to trust in the aging potential of the Syrah Case Via. If you have a bottle in your cellar, your drinking window is closing.