This is a fascinating expression of Syrah that does not fit into our preconceived expectations of the grape, whether from the Old World or the New. The Fontodi 2017 Syrah Case Via opens to a rich, inky dark appearance. I got a sweet note of butterscotch or caramel at the start, but that subsided quickly to make room for black fruit, toasted wood, campfire ash and ripe plum. The wine is not exactly varietally pure, especially if you identify with the toasty Shiraz camp of Australia or the meaty, white peppercorn camp of the Rh?ne. Instead, this wine has a vaguely carbonic level of energy, zest and ripe primary fruit. The fruit is dark, bold, rich and Tuscan, with a direct and sunny personality.