The stylish, understated, restrained, redcurrant nose is attractive, but once the wine lands on the palate, the high level of tart acidity caused this taster to forget the good aromatics, and reach for a glass of Pellegrino. The wine is narrowly constructed (largely because of the high acid's influence on the texture), and cleanly made, but essentially one-dimensional and innocuous except for its acidic sharpness. It has lost its baby fat, and, lamentably, reveals too much structure and not enough depth.The tasting notes for this section are from two single blind tastings, one conducted in May, 1996, in California, and the other in June, 1996, in Baltimore.