A limited production garagiste operation, La Gomerie is treated like a favored child by its proprietor. Jean-Philippe Fort, Michel Rolland’s top assistant, is a consultant for this 100% Merlot-based wine produced from a 5-acre, 31-year-old vineyard. The sensational 2003 is performing even better from bottle than it did from cask. Production was a tiny 750 cases (as opposed to1,000 in an abundant year), and the finished alcohol is 13.7%, rather high for Bordeaux. Nevertheless, the wine possesses surprising freshness and liveliness, which adds to its appeal. A deep purple color is accompanied by a sweet bouquet of chocolate, black raspberries, cherries, charcoal, and toasty oak, powerful, full-bodied, concentrated flavors, and high levels of silky tannin. Low acidity and abundant glycerin suggest it can be drunk now and over the next decade. This is a sumptuous St.-Emilion.

Aromas of blackberry and toasted oak, with some espresso undertones. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, rich finish. Seductive. Best after 2012. 750 cases made. -JS