I was knocked-out by the quality of the 2002 The Galvo Garage Proprietary Red, a Bordeaux blend of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 19% Petit Verdot. It is a serious effort with an inky/ruby/purple color, and a big, perfumed bouquet of vanilla, cedar, black currants, licorice, and earth. Medium to full-bodied, powerful, and rich, with high extract, moderately high tannin, and a long finish, it will be even better with another 1-2 years of bottle age, and should keep for 12-14 years. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Its name is a nod to French garagiste wines, as is its composition (Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot). It tastes Old World, too, with drying tannins and wood on the palate, and red fruit in a supporting role. Aromas are of briar patch and roasted berries; finishes with a tangy lemon/tea bite.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 86