When the medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1998 Clos de la Roche drops its seductive baby fat, the verdict on its future will be determined. It has huge quantities of sweet cherry, blackberry, and violet-infused blueberries, a huge velvety-textured character, and a full body. However, it is astonishingly tannic and firm. While this wine may have the requisite power and depth to sustain significant cellaring, will it outlast its rugged tannins?