Like the Clos de Vougeot, the 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Domaine Leroy is built for the ages, opening in the glass with a bouquet of red-black berries, cherries, wood smoke, pencil shavings and incipient suggestions of soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and firm, with an ample and assertive chassis of chalky tannins, formidable power and concentration, with a long, grippy finish. This is cut from very different cloth than the Musigny that preceded it in our tasting, but it is taut rather than hard: the only missing ingredient is time.