Proprietor Alexandre Bonnie has produced brilliant white and red wines at this estate's NASA space age-looking winemaking facility. I remember these wines from the early days of The Wine Advocate, and they were undrinkable swill. That is certainly not the case today. This is classic Pessac-Leognan with leafy tobacco, smoky red and black currant, forest floor, cedar, and graphite notes. It is a medium-bodied wine of impeccable purity, texture, and balance. Enjoy it over the next 15 years.

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Chateau Malartic-Lagravière has a well-defined bouquet with blackberry, blueberry and violet scents. I appreciate the control and precision on display here. The palate does not quite match the quality of the nose, although it still offers pleasure: blackberry and subtle spicy notes, quite steely in the mouth with a vivid but linear, black cherry and boysenberry finish. With time, hints of pencil lead evolve in the glass and become more prominent on the finish. Drink now and over the next decade. Tasted January 2016.

An evocatively perfumed wine, with aromas of pine, eucalyptus and spice. To taste, it is open, generous, its tannins cushioned inside ripe, jelly black fruits. Everything mingles well, the core of dryness an essential component of the richness of the wine.——R.V.(3/1/2009)—— 92