Probably the best wine that has come from this estate, along with their 2005, the final blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot boasts Michel Rolland as the consulting oenologist. This organically farmed vineyard has turned out a deeply layered wine with a striking perfume of graphite, wet stones, red and black currants, tobacco leaf and underbrush. The compelling aromatics are followed by a medium-bodied but intensely concentrated wine with loads of ripe fruit, plenty of glycerin (14% natural alcohol) and a long, nuanced, impressively endowed finish. Accessible already, this wine should continue to drink well for 15 or more years.

The 2009 Malartic Lagravière is medium to deep garnet colored and reveals alluring scents of warm cassis, redcurrant jelly, spice cake, forest floor and potpourri with hints of unsmoked cigar. Medium-bodied, it has a firm, fine-grained texture and plenty of freshness supporting the vibrant red and black fruit layers, finishing on a lingering earthy note.

Packed and very backward, with taut tobacco, iron and bittersweet cocoa notes up front, while the core of crushed plum, roasted fig and cassis flavors is held in reserve. Lots of chalky grip marks the finish, where the fruit drips in the background. Best from 2015 through 2022. 7,500 cases made. -JM

Black red, superbly concentrated purity of cassis fruit, then fragrant and slightly smoky lift, freshness runs through the precise intensity of vineyard fruit, a brilliantly expressed and focussed wine that needs time to open up. Drink 2018-35. (18 points)

93-95 Barrel sample. Ripe fruit, but with great packed spicy wood, sweet tannins and black currant fruit flavors. ——R.V.(8/9/2010)—— 94