The 2004 Gigondas possesses a beautiful perfume of white flowers intermixed with crushed rocks and blue as well as black fruits, medium to full body, supple tannin, and a velvety, opulent finish. This impressive effort should turn out to be slightly richer and fuller than the 2003. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

The 2004 Gigondas Tradition is very evolved, reveals lots of finesse and supple tannins, and seems lightweight compared to the 2005. It has lower acidity than the 2005, but gorgeous, sweet loamy soil notes intermixed with crushed rock and plenty of blue and black fruits with a hint of acacia flowers. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. This is arguably the best estate of Gigondas, although the exuberant proprietor Yves Gras has plenty of competition from his nearby neighbor Louis Barruol at St.-Cosme. A few years ago readers may remember I mentioned that Gras started a negociant business which is obviously successful given his knowledge of local growers and top vineyards. He has also opened a wine-tasting bar and bistro in the old Roman village of Vaison La Romaine with one of the local chefs, Raoul Reichrath. It is called Bistro du ‘O.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Very racy, with raspberry ganache and graphite notes kept in check for now by the slightly firm structure. Yet there's plenty of depth, with fine minerality that should blossom with cellaring. Best from 2007 through 2010. 500 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add

This is one wine I could sit and smell all day, with its incredible black pepper nose and lovely blackberry fruit. May not have quite the richness and density of the 2003 version, but instead displays impeccable balance, freshness and length. ——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 91