A rocking Gigondas that delivers the goods - and then some - is the 2010 Gigondas. It offers full throttle, petal to the metal notes of creme de cassis, black raspberries, spice, licorice and background meatiness, all while showing the purity, precision and focus of this brilliant vintage. Possessing full-bodied richness, a big mid-palate and a layered textured, with building tannin, it's still an infant and needs another 2-3 years to be approachable, yet will cruise for over a decade after that.

The 2010 Gigondas Tradition (an identical blend) is dense, showing crisper acids, and a touch more focus and precision than the 2009. But again, it is a big wine, deep, full-bodied, with outstanding ripeness in its hints of licorice, truffles, asphalt, black raspberries and black cherries. It should drink well for 15 or more years. (Not yet released)One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

This is a brick house, with iron-clad grip coursing through the core of black currant, dried fig and blackberry reduction notes. Lots of bay, tobacco and juniper stride in on the finish, with a sprinkle of baker's chocolate for added length and tension. Needs a little time. Best from 2015 through 2025. 500 cases imported.??–JM??Region: France / Southern Rh?ne / Gigondas Select to Add