A classic effort, the 1998 Geyserville (74% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignan, and 1% Matero) possesses Bordeaux-like complexity and elegance. The alcohol is listed as 14.1%. The wine was reticent on the day I tasted it, but as it sat in the glass, sweet aromas of minerals, smoky wood, red/black currants, and dried herbs emerged. This classy, elegant, restrained, yet authoritatively rich Zinfandel should be consumed over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

This is the 33rd vintage of this landmark Zinfandel, which, since it’s a blend that includes just 74% Zinfandel in it, isn’t technically Zinfandel at all. Whatever. It’s just plain delicious, old-vine, succulent juice. Jammy, juicy, vibrant and tight, it has a long life ahead. ——P.G.(3/1/2001)—— 90