The top of the line white, Phelps' Chardonnay Ovation, is a big, leesy, barrel-fermented, Burgundian-styled wine that is frequently exceptional. Almost all of the fruit for this cuvee emerges from Napa's cooler areas, particularly Carneros and Yountville. The 1997 Chardonnay Ovation exhibits a light straw color, and a bouquet of honeyed citrus, pineapple, and pear with integrated wood. On the palate, it is creamy-textured, full-bodied, beautifully pure, and well-delineated, with good acidity, grip, and a long finish. It should drink well for 4-5 years. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831