The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is a beautifully layered wine graced with smoke, butter, hazelnuts and rich, generous fruit. This shows the broad shoulders of this part of Chassagne in its large-scaled fruit and boisterous personality. The flavors build impressively towards the boisterous, mineral-infused finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. I tasted the 2009s with Jerome Faure-Brac, Drouhin’s head winemaker. Interestingly, Faure-Brac chose to serve these wines a touch on the warm side, so I could observe their strengths and weaknesses more clearly. It was a high stakes move, especially in a warm vintage. I am not sure I would have had the guts to make that decision, but it speaks of great conviction….and the wines came through beautifully. The 2009 harvest began on September 21st, quite late for the year. New oak levels were down sharply, malos were blocked on a number of wines and the estate did no batonnage. The wines were racked once prior to being bottled. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770