The 2002 Ironstone Pressings GSM may be the finest example of this cuvee I have yet tasted. A blend of 75% Grenache, 20% Shiraz, and 5% Mourvedre, its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by an explosive perfume of dried herbs, black fruits, ground pepper, licorice, and old oak. This full-bodied, powerful, opulent blend boasts loads of fruit, wonderfully sweet glycerin, and a long finish with outstanding purity, definition, and structure. Drink it now and over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Rob McDonald, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

Named for the ironstone deposits cleared from area vineyards, which—perhaps by power of suggestion—you can taste in the wine. What at first feels like a fistful of oak on the palate smooths out to an earthy, minerally impression with air. The texture is also quite nice; chewy tannins rule the roost here. Fans of forward, fruity wines should keep shopping.——D.T.(3/1/2005)—— 89