The 2005 The Ironstone Pressings GSM is superb in this top-notch vintage. It exhibits a fragrant bouquet of mineral, earth, truffle, black cherry, plum, and blueberry. Full-bodied as well full-throttled, it offers an extra dimension of complex spicy blue and black fruit flavors, well-concealed tannin, and a seamless, pure finish. Rich enough to be enjoyed now, it will provide pleasure over the next 20 years. D’Arenberg has been owned and operated by the Osborn family since its inception in 1912. The portfolio, with a focus on Rhone varietals, is wide-ranging and value-oriented from top to bottom.Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552; www.darenberg.com.au; Also tasted: 2005 The Stump Jump Shiraz (82), 2005 The Custodian Grenache (84), 2005 Sticks and Stones Tempranillo, Grenache, Souzao (84)

This blend of 70% Grenache, 25% Shiraz and 5% Mourvedre features surprisingly dark fruit flavors akin to blackberries and cola. A hint of mint or eucalyptus enlivens the bouquet and helps to lighten this otherwise rather full-bodied, brooding wine. Finishes long, with enough dusty tannins to warrant cellaring through 2015.——J.C.(10/1/2008)—— 90