One of the sexiest, most hedonistic wines of the vintage, La Clotte’s 2005 (fewer than 1,400 cases produced from this 10-acre vineyard) is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. An exquisite perfume of underbrush, charcoal, kirsch, spice box, chocolate, and espresso soars from the glass of this full-bodied claret. With low acidity for the vintage, sweet tannin, and a fleshy, multilayered mouthfeel, this decadent St.-Emilion should last longer than its precocious showing in March suggests. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.

There's loads of blackberry, vanilla bean and dark chocolate. Full-bodied, with supervelvety tannins and a long finish. This is polished, refined and harmonious. Best after 2011. 1,330 cases made. -JS

Oaky spice at first, slightly peppery. Dense, fine, minerally, almost savoury richness. Firm, sweet tannins. Lovely and fresh.