Frequently the most massive of Chablis' grand crus, the Chablis Les Clos has huge amounts of glycerin as its legs appear to be in suspended animation on the sides of the glass. It reveals a super rich and deep nose with toast and wet stone scents and a hugely powerful, thick, luscious, full-bodied, bone dry, and tight-fisted core of citrus fruits, minerals, flint and ever so slight touches of spicy oak (even though it was aged in 30% new oak). Its brawn, impeccable balance, and extremely long finish are all outstanding. Projected maturity: 2000-2008. Michel Laroche, the dapper director of this large Chablis producer, stated he had not witnessed a vintage comparable to 1996 in the thirty years he has been crafting wines. Laroche sighted the bright sun (luminosite) that drove up sugar levels through photosynthesis while cool temperatures (22C daytime and 4C evening) maintained high acidity levels. He went on to say that 1996 is 10% richer in sugar and 10% higher in acidity than 1995, another excellent Chablis vintage. Furthermore, he said that in 1997 his wines attained high sugar levels from heat, not sun, and therefore had low acidity levels. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel (312) 247-7070.

Sexy, racy Chablis that shows this wonderful '96 vintage at its best. Full-bodied yet elegant, it packs loads of mineral, honey, ripe pear, tangerine and wet earth flavors in a subtle, round, seductive package that should only get better with cellaring. Long, multilayered finish. Tempting now, but this monument will hold through 2010 and perhaps beyond. 800 cases made.??–PM??Region: France / Burgundy / Chablis Select to Add